"Do you know the Latin roots of the word focaccia?" asks head chef and owner Kerry Altiero, as he slides one of his creations into the flaming brick oven (The oldest continually operated wood-fire oven in the state of Maine, he'll have you know). "It comes from the words 'focus' and 'hearth'. Historically, the hearth was the center of the home". It is fair to say that Cafe Miranda successfully recreates this tradition. The small but exciting kitchen bubbles with flavors and energy and the chef is forever tossing colorful dishes into the cavernous oven.
Located in downtown Rockland, which now boasts a lively and diverse restaurant scene, Cafe Miranda was one of a kind when it opened its doors in 1993. Many thought Altiero was half crazy for attempting such an eclectic and unique dining experience at a time when Rockland was serving almost exclusively chowder and fish 'n chips. However, thanks in part to a loyal local following, it may be safe to say that Cafe Miranda started the Midcoast food revolution.
Altiero pauses for moment in his work and informs us that he has to go "bait some customers". This is exactly what it sounds like. Altiero hurries outside to the patrons patiently reading the extensive menu and offers them a piping hot slice of fresh focaccia. They are clearly surprised and impressed and the deep aroma of the bread seems to be working its magic before they even take bite. "90% success rate," claims the chef. Indeed, it is the personalized attitude of Cafe Miranda that gives the restaurant half its charm. Many of the dishes on the menu are named after people or events in the owners life that have led to some burst of culinary creativity or humorous addition to the restaurant.
"Every dish has a story," Altiero says, as he spices up what appears to be a beautifully bastardized Thai dish. This guy is a gold mine for one liners. Some of the highlights; Don't Eat Me, Joe!, I Dream't of Jerry, Burrito d'Evan (named after the owner's son), and 4 Kristina (his wife). Those that do not pay homage to a particular person are the product of many arbitrary and insane incidents that lead to the creation of masterpieces such as; Fabulous Bowl of Meat (better known as the f.bom), Hummus Goes to Italy (served on a blue plate, according to the menu), Escarnot, 50 mph Tomatoes, and the Wedgie salad. One of Altiero's favorite dishes to watch people order is the "Johnsons Crossing", a title that only becomes clear once the customer receives the plate of dueling sausages and realizes that the name was not in fact lacking an apostrophe.
Another dish on the menu, the "Sorta Pad Thai", captures the overall thesis of the menu, which is that nothing is what you would normally expect to get. While the dish draws some inspiration from the original recipe, the end product is an entirely different creation that relies primarily on the Altiero's willingness to constantly explore and experiment with flavor combination. Rather than being something of a science, the chef sees his work as an art more akin to music. Some dishes are "subtle, jazzy dishes" while others perform "cookie monster rock". (Yes, we too are a little confused on what exactly that means. I think it is probably a positive thing though)
The entertainment does not stop at the menu. The restaurant hosts a varied collection of salt and pepper shakers (no two sets are the same) that are collected from all over the map and are often the gifts of loyal customers. The popularity of the items has also resulted in some of the more prized sets being stolen, such as the infamous Pucking Figs (you can figure that one out for yourself).
Last but not least, no visit to Cafe Miranda is complete without a trip to the bathroom. This has nothing to do with the food, I assure you. In actuality it is less of a bathroom and more of an Elvis memorabilia museum. The first Elvis object arrived during the restaurant's first week, when a guy walked into a bar and put a Latino Elvis in the bathroom. Ever since then, the collection has tranformed into something of a shrine. All of the pieces are donations except for one, the "bullfighter Elvis", which Altiero found too spectacular to pass up.
Personal favorites:Emma's pick: Chicken Curry
Abby's pick: Hummus Goes to Italy (on a blue plate)
Jane's pick: Sorta Pad Thai
Our Ratings (1-5)Atmosphere: 5
Food: 5
Service: 5
Cafe Miranda opens every evening at 5pm ($$)
Cafe Miranda
15 Oak St.
Rockland, ME. 04841
207-594-2034
